Grizzly Guardians

Later, as I cook my supper, I look up from my campfire and see the two grizzlies about fifty yards down river. They are sitting on their haunches, as if patiently waiting to see if I will leave. I eye them for some time, but they do not move. Rather, they lick their fur coats and sit with heads bowed, occasionally looking my way.

Finally, it is time for me to crawl into my tent and go to sleep. It’s dark enough now that I can’t make out whether they are still there. No matter. I feel safe—or at least as safe as one can feel with two such sentinels nearby. I lay in my sleeping bag, listening for any telltale sound. But the night is peaceful, and the peace descends on me.

I fall asleep.

*    *     *

Next morning, I crawl out of my tent and, first thing, check to see if my two visitors are still there.

Gone. I’m crest fallen. I kind of liked the idea of them being around and now I miss them. Oh well, it’s a new day and who knows what or who is around the next bend in the river. I tear open a packet of oatmeal and mix it in a cup of boiling water, adding a few blueberries I’d picked a couple of days before. Staring into a steaming cup of hot chocolate, I sit quietly. Finally, I rummage through my daypack and find one of the maps I’ve printed from the web. Kobuk, the first of the Inupiat villages, still looks to be a couple of days paddle.

Solo, Chapter 11